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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.